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WELDED WIRE ROLLED FENCING: https://ebay.us/QdWI0w / https://amzn.to/41TIuUQ
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Today I'm showing my construction of a simple, stable, long-lasting and inexpensive pond fence. This video contains no AI and no sponsored products. I selected and purchased all the materials myself and linked them in the video description. This way you can easily find the materials and prices and support this video using the affiliate links. I built my approximately 300 square meter natural pond myself years ago. One of the first videos on my channel was about building this pond without a pond liner. A little later I started breeding koi as a hobby, and today this group of Yamabuki Koi adorns my natural pond.The majority of the bank vegetation has established itself over the years. In the cold season, the plants die above ground. The stretched nylon net to protect the fish from predators from the air has grown in and been pushed down by the grass in the bank area. Today I will show how we untangle the net, mow and clean the bank, put a fence around the entire pond and put the net back at the right height. First we pull the net out of the grass, if possible without damaging it. Once the net is loose over a length of approx. 15 meters, I use the brush cutter to mow the bank area nice and short. Once the section has been mown, clippings and leaves are removed with a rake, fork and wheelbarrow.Now we start driving in the first fence posts. For this project I chose galvanized Z-profile posts. These do not require a concrete foundation, are stable and extremely durable. I push the post through the turf and then use the spirit level to roughly align it so that it doesn't get too crooked. With a few blows of a hammer and a piece of oak wood to protect the material, I bring it to the desired depth. The posts are 1.5 meters long and are driven in to around 80 centimeters. I planned a distance between the posts of about 2 meters. I use a Euro mesh fence with a height of 80 centimeters and a mesh spacing of 10 centimeters. It is made of galvanized steel with a powder coating.I chose the color anthracite, so the fence is particularly unobtrusive. The roll is 25 meters long and I calculated 3 rolls. The Z-profile posts are usually equipped with hooks 10 centimeters apart. This is where I hang the braid. Because the mesh is rigid, the roll is easy to unroll. Now I can bring each fence panel individually to a slight tension and hook it onto the post. This also saves you the tension wires. Working in sections ensures that the net remains approximately in position and does not need to be completely re-stretched. In this area the bank is slightly higher. Here I remove some soil so that the fence can continue to run as horizontally as possible. Strong bumps make it impossible to tension the fence. The first 25 meters have been completed and a new fence roll begins here.I overlap both fences and wrap the wire ends around. If you want, you can also attach simple fence wire tensioners between the two fence parts instead. In addition, I thread a steel rod through the overlapping area as a connection. Whenever a section is tensioned, the retaining hooks can be pressed in. This means the fence can no longer slip out. The nylon net can also be tensioned again in this area. The Z-profile posts are really very stable and are ideal for tensioning a pond net like this. This fence is not only intended to protect the koi from predators, but also primarily helps to minimize the danger to small children near the water. I really like the interim result because it looks clean and tidy and the dark mesh is almost invisible.
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#steelfence #fencebuild #pondfence