Description
The first chapter of our Murshidabad series begins at Kolkata Railway Station as we board the Hazar Duari Express for Behrampore. Like every memorable train journey across India, this one is as much about the food as it is about the destination. As the train rolls through the Bengal countryside, vendors weave through the coaches with an irresistible spread of local favourites. From spicy jhal muri and comforting ghugni to steaming cups of chai and buttery pepper toast, the journey itself becomes a delightful introduction to the flavours of Bengal.
On reaching Behrampore, we are warmly welcomed by our host, Souvik, founder of Sobuj Bari. A beautifully restored 175-year-old ancestral home turned homestay, Sobuj Bari is a serene retreat that beautifully blends heritage with heartfelt hospitality, offering guests an authentic glimpse into the culture and warmth of Murshidabad. After a traditional felicitation, we set out to explore the district beyond its celebrated history, discovering the places, people, and food that define everyday life here.
Our first stop is the revered Bishnupur Kalibari, where we seek the blessings of Goddess Kali before beginning our exploration. From there, we take a ferry ride from Gora Bazar to Basantatola Village, enjoying a peaceful journey across the river that has long connected communities on both banks. Once in the village, we pause for a simple yet comforting snack of chai, muri, and freshly fried chop before visiting the tranquil Sheetala Mata Temple, surrounded by lush greenery and the calm of rural Bengal.
Returning to Gora Bazar, we dive into the vibrant local market. Our first stop is one of the town's oldest grocery shops, where we learn about its long legacy and hear firsthand about the challenges traditional businesses face in changing times. We then wander through the bustling vegetable market, filled with an abundance of fresh, locally grown produce. Drumsticks, bottle gourds, ridge gourds, leafy greens, and countless seasonal vegetables line the stalls, reflecting the agricultural richness of the region. We also enjoy the refreshing taste of seasonal taal shash (ice apple). Market visits like these offer a fascinating window into a region's food culture, revealing the ingredients, produce, and everyday traditions that shape local cuisine.
Our next stop is a traditional muri shop, where we discover the many varieties of Bengal's beloved puffed rice and learn why this humble staple continues to be an integral part of daily life across the state.
Breakfast begins at the popular Anytime shop, a favourite among locals for its fresh snacks and sweets. We relish crisp dal puri served with a hearty potato and soyabean curry, accompanied by their distinctive garlic-flavoured cholar dal—a delicious combination that perfectly captures the comforting flavours of Bengali breakfasts.
No visit to Behrampore is complete without stopping at Mitali, an iconic sweet and snack shop known for its famous chhatur kochuri. We also indulge in two of their signature sweets: baked rosogolla with its beautifully caramelized top and the syrup-soaked chhana jilipi, each showcasing the rich confectionery traditions of Murshidabad.
Since fish is inseparable from Bengali cuisine, our next destination is the bustling wholesale fish market. Watching the day's fresh catch being unloaded and witnessing the lively interactions between fishermen, traders, and buyers offers a deeper appreciation of how integral fish is to the everyday food culture of Bengal.
Our final food stop takes us to the beloved Ghosh Sweets, where we savour another plate of chhatur kochuri paired with classic cholar dal. This timeless combination remains one of Bengal's most cherished breakfast favourites, loved for its simplicity and satisfying flavours.
We wrap up the morning with a leisurely adda over cups of chai at a roadside chayer dokan near Barrack Square, spending time with local morning walkers and soaking in the easy pace of life in Behrampore. Sometimes, it's these unhurried conversations that reveal the true character of a place.
This is just the beginning of our Murshidabad journey. Over the coming episodes, we'll explore its legendary mangoes, vibrant markets, village life, historic homes, age-old recipes, beloved eateries, and the remarkable people who continue to preserve the region's rich culinary heritage.
Sobuj Bari
Airbnb (Superhost), Behrampore
Booking :
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